SIGHTS
Marsh's LibraryOne of the city's most beautiful open secrets is Marsh's Library (tel 454 3511; www.marshlibrary.ie; St Patrick's Close; adult/child/student €2.50/free/1.50; open 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 10.30am-1pm Sat), a barely visited antique library with a look and atmosphere that has hardly changed since it opened its doors to awkward scholars in 1707. It's just around the corner from St Patrick's Cathedral.
Crammed into its elaborately carved oak bookcases are over 25,000 books dating from the 16th to early 18th centuries, as well as maps, numerous manuscripts and a collection of incunabula (books printed before 1500). One of the oldest and finest tomes in the collection is a volume of Cicero's Letters to His Friends printed in Milan in 1472.
The building was commissioned by Archbishop Narcissus March (1638-1713) and designed by Sir William Robinson, the creator of the Royal Hospital Kilmainham; today it is one of the only 18th-century buildings in Dublin still used for the purpose for which it was built. In short, it's a bloody gorgeous place and you'd be mad not to visit.
War memorial gardens
By my reckoning, the most beautiful patch of landscaped greenery in Dublin is the War Memorial Gardens (tel 677 0236; www.heritageireland.ie; South Circular Rd, Islandbridge; admission free; open 8am-twilight Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun), if only because they're as tranquil a spot as any you'll find in the city. Designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, they commemorate the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died during WWI; their names are inscribed in the two huge granite bookrooms that stand at one end. A beautiful spot and a bit of history to boot. Take bus 25, 25A, 26, 68 or 69 from the city centre to get here.
Chester Beatty Library
The world-famous Chester Beatty Library (tel 407 0750; www.cbl.ie; Dublin Castle, Cork Hill; admission free; open 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun year-round, closed Mon Oct-Apr) houses the collection of mining engineer Sir Alfred Chester Beatty (1875-1968), bequeathed to the Irish State on his death. And we're immensely grateful for Chester's patronage: spread over two floors, the breathtaking collection includes more than 20,000 manuscripts, rare books, miniature paintings, clay tablets, costumes and other objects of artistic, historical and aesthetic importance. The library runs tours at 1pm Wednesday, and 3pm and 4pm Sunday.
The Artistic Traditions Gallery on the 1st floor begins with memorabilia from Beatty's life, before embarking on an exploration of the art of Mughal India, Persia, the Ottoman empire, Japan and China. Here you'll find intricately designed little medicine boxes and perhaps the finest collection of Chinese jade books in the world. The illuminated European texts are also worth examining.
The Sacred Traditions Gallery on the 2nd floor gives a fascinating insight into the major rituals and rites of passage of the major world religions - Judaism, Christianity, Islam, Buddhism and Hinduism. There are audiovisual explorations of the lives of Christ and the Buddha, as well as the Muslim pilgrimage to Mecca.
Head for the collection of Qurans from the 9th to the 19th centuries, considered to be among the best illuminated Islamic texts. You'll also find ancient Egyptian papyrus texts (including Egyptian love poems from around 1100 BC), scrolls and exquisite artwork from Burma, Indonesia and Tibet - as well as the second-oldest biblical fragment ever found (after the Dead Sea Scrolls).
The comprehensive Reference Library (hby appointment only), complete with a finely lacquered ceiling that Beatty himself had installed in his own London home, is a great resource for artists or students.
The library regularly holds specialist workshops, exhibitions and talks on everything from origami to calligraphy, and admission is free. It's easy to escape from the rigours of Western life on the serene rooftop Japanese garden or at the Silk Road Cafe on the ground floor, which serves delicious Middle Eastern cuisine.
Kilmainham Jail
If you have any desire to understand Irish history - especially the juicy bits about resistance to English rule - then a visit to Kilmainham Jail (tel 453 5984; www.heritageireland.com; Inchicore Rd; adult/student/child €6/2/2; open 9.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, 9.30am-4pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun Nov-Mar) is an absolute must. This threatening grey building, built between 1792 and 1795, has played a role in virtually every act of Ireland's painful path to independence.
The uprisings of 1798, 1803, 1848, 1867 and 1916 ended with the leaders' confinement here. Robert Emmet, Thomas Francis Meagher, Charles Stewart Parnell and the 1916 Easter Rising leaders were all visitors, but it was the executions in 1916 that most deeply etched the jail's name into the Irish consciousness. Of the 15 executions that took place between 3 May and 12 May after the rising, 14 were conducted here. As a finale, prisoners from the Civil War were held here from 1922. The jail closed in 1924.
An excellent audiovisual introduction to the building is followed by a thought- provoking tour through the eerie prison, the largest unoccupied building of its kind in Europe. Incongruously sitting outside in the yard is the Asgard, the ship that successfully ran the British blockade to deliver arms to nationalist forces in 1914. The tour finishes in the gloomy yard where the 1916 executions took place. To get here, catch bus 23, 51, 51A, 78 or 79 from Aston Quay.
Old Jameson Distillery
Smithfield's biggest draw is the Old Jameson Distillery (tel 807 2355; www.jameson.ie; Bow St; adult/child/student €13.50/8/10; open for tours every 35min 9am-5.30pm), a huge museum devoted to uisce beatha (the water of life). To its more serious devotees, that is precisely what whiskey is, although they may be put off by the slickness of the museum, which shepherds visitors through a compulsory tour of the re-created factory and into the ubiquitous gift shop.
On the way, however, there's plenty to discover. Beginning with a short film, the tour runs through the whole process of distilling, from grain to bottle. There are plenty of interesting titbits, such as what makes a single malt, where whiskey gets its colour and bouquet, and what the difference is between Irish whiskey and Scotch (other than the spelling, which prompted one Scot to comment that the Irish thought of everything: they even put an 'e' into whisky).
Then it's straight to the bar for a drop of the subject matter; eager drinkers can volunteer for the tasting tour, where you get to sample whiskies from all over the world and learn about their differences. Finally, you head to the almighty shop. If you're buying whiskey, go for the stuff you can't buy at home, such as the excellent Red Breast or the super exclusive Midleton, a very limited reserve that is appropriately expensive.
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF IRELAND
Two sites, both free: why is it only tourists visit the most important deposit of Irish artefacts and treasures in the country?
Designed by Sir Thomas Newenham Deane and completed in 1890, the star attraction of this branch of the National Museum of Ireland (tel 677 7444; www.museum.ie; Kildare St; admission free; open 10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 2-5pm Sun) is the Treasury, home to the finest collection of Bronze Age and Iron Age gold artefacts in the world, and the world's most complete collection of medieval Celtic metalwork.
Until it was decommissioned over a decade ago, Collins Barracks, built in 1704 on the orders of Queen Anne, was the largest military barracks in the world. In 1997 the early neoclassical grey stone building on the Liffey's northern bank was given a sparkling, modern makeover and now houses the decorative-arts-and-history collection of the National Museum of Ireland (tel 677 7444; www.museum.ie; Benburb St; admission free; open 10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 2-5pm Sun).
Inside the imposing exterior lies a treasure trove of artefacts ranging from silver, ceramics and glassware to weaponry, furniture and folk-life displays. Some of the best pieces are gathered in the exhibition Curator's Choice, a collection of 25 objects hand-picked by different curators, displayed with an account of why they were chosen.
The museum itself offers a glimpse at Ireland's social, economic and military history over the last millennium. It's a big ask - too big, say its critics - but well-designed displays, interactive multimedia and a dizzying array of disparate artefacts make for an interesting and valiant effort. On the 1st floor is the museum's Irish silver collection, one of the largest collections of silver in the world; on the 2nd floor you'll find Irish period furniture and scientific instruments; while the 3rd floor has simple and sturdy Irish country furniture.
Lovers of modern furniture and design will enjoy the exhibition on iconic Irish designer Eileen Gray (1878-1976), which is a museum highlight. Gray was one of the most influential designers of the 20th century, and the exhibition documents her life and work, and shows examples and models of her most famous pieces. The fascinating Way We Wore exhibit displays Irish clothing and jewellery from the past 250 years. An intriguing socio-cultural study, it highlights the role of jewellery and clothing in bestowing messages of mourning, love and identity.
It was once a barracks, so it's fitting that military history should be a feature: one exhibition chronicles Ireland's Easter 1916 Rising while the new Soldiers & Chiefs: The Irish At War Home & Abroad 1550-2001 explores the civil impact of conflict through original artefacts, audio accounts and replicas. At times harrowing and visceral, these exhibits bring to life these poignant episodes of Irish history with remarkable force.
jeanie johnston
One of the city's most original tourist attractions is an exact, working replica of a 19th-century 'coffin ship,' as the sailing boats who transported starving emigrants away from Ireland during the Famine were gruesomely known. The good news is that the Jeanie Johnston (tel 066-712 9999; www.jeaniejohnston.ie; Custom House Quay; adult/child €5/3; open 10.30am-5pm Sat-Sun Oct-Apr), a three-masted barque originally built in Quebec in 1847, made 16 transatlantic voyages, carrying more than 2500 people and never suffered a single death. A small on-board museum details the harrowing plight of a typical journey, which usually took around 47 days. The ship also operates as a Sail Training vessel, with journeys taking place from May to September. If you are visiting during these times, check the website for details of when it will be in dock.
The Best Walk
On a summer's evening, just before the sun begins to set, wend your way to the South Bull Wall and walk the length of it to the Poolbeg Lighthouse. From here, the views of Dublin Bay are stunning, and if you have the weather, there's no better place to get a sense of the city.
iWalks
If you fancy a go-it-alone guided walk, why not download one of Pat Liddy's excellent iWalks ( to subscribe, go to www.visitdublin.com/iwalks/iwalks.xml ), which you can play on your ipod or equivalent mp3 player - all you have to do is subscribe to the podcasts at the above address (or search for them on itunes). There are a bunch of walks, from tours of the city's different districts to walks tailored to historical, architectural and activities themes.
Farmers' and organic markets
Dublin Food Co-op (tel 454 4258; www.dublinfoodcoop.com; 12 Newmarket; 2-8pm Thu, 9.30am-4.30pm Sat) A buzzing community market specialising in organic veg, homemade cheeses and organic wines; there's also a baker ands even baby-changing facilities. Howth Fishermen's & Farmers' Market Bar (tel 611 5016; www.irishfarmersmarkets.ie; West Pier, Howth Harbour; 10am-5pm Sun & bank holidays) One of the best in Dublin, this is the place to come for fresh fish (obviously) but for organic meat, veg and homemade everything else, including jams, cakes and breads. A great option for Sunday lunch.
People's Park Market (tel 087-957 3647; People's Park, Dun Laoghaire; 11am-4pm Sun) Organic meat and veg, local seafood, Irish fruit and farm cheeses are the mainstay at this popular market in the south Dublin suburb of Dun Laoghaire. Grab a burger and sit on the lawn.
For more info on local markets, check out www.irishfarmersmarkets.ie, www.irishvillagemarkets.com or local county council sites like www.dlrcoco.ie/markets.
TRAVEL NEWS
Business Class is DippingPosh Travel is out and watching your wallet and holidaying at home are in. The signs are everywhere. The number of people flying business and first class fell sharply, by 19 per cent, in March, despite bargain business and first-class tickets. The decline in economy travel was lower, at 8 per cent, but will fall further, says the International Air Transport Association.
The only destination seeing a growth in passengers is the Middle East. Everywhere else demand has plummeted, prompting Iata to forecast a €4.7 billion loss this year, on top of losses of €8.5 billion last year.
E-passports for US travel
If you're travelling to the US this summer, be aware that from July 1st you'll need an e-passport to enter the country. If your passport was issued after October 25th, 2006, but is not an e-passport, apply for a visa before you travel or apply for a waiver at the US port of entry. This could cost $545 at the airport; customs officers can waive the fee.
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